Audemars Piguet stands as one of the most esteemed names in the world of haute horlogerie, embodying over a century of Swiss watchmaking excellence. The history of Audemars Piguet dates back to 1875, when the brand was founded in the heart of Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Since then, it has pioneered innovations in precision engineering and avant-garde design, solidifying its position as a cornerstone of luxury timepieces. Known for its dedication to craftsmanship and artisanal techniques, Audemars Piguet has produced some of history’s most iconic and collectible watches. From the revolutionary Royal Oak to ultra-thin mechanical movements, Audemars Piguet’s history reflects not just tradition, but a legacy of continuous innovation, making it a highly sought-after name in the luxury watch market.
Origins of Audemars Piguet: The Founding Years (1875-1881)
Audemars Piguet (AP) began its journey in the Vallée de Joux, a region known as the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, nestled in Le Brassus, Switzerland. In 1875, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, two childhood friends with a shared passion for horology, combined their expertise to create what would become one of the most prestigious watch brands in the world.
Jules Audemars was a master watchmaker with expertise in intricate movements, while Edward Piguet excelled in sales and marketing. Their complementary skills laid the groundwork for Audemars Piguet’s success, blending technical mastery with business acumen. From the very beginning, the brand’s dedication to handcrafted precision and the creation of complex timepieces established a standard of excellence that continues to define it today.
In 1881, the duo formally registered their business under the name Audemars Piguet & Cie, marking the beginning of a dynasty of horological innovation that remains family-owned to this day.
Defining Moments: Key Milestones in Audemars Piguet’s Evolution
Throughout its illustrious history, Audemars Piguet has marked several pivotal moments that have defined the brand and pushed the boundaries of haute horlogerie. These milestones, from the debut of groundbreaking complications to innovative wristwatch designs, have played a critical role in shaping the brand and the broader watch industry.
Below are some of the most significant milestones that showcase Audemars Piguet’s continued evolution and its leadership in fine watchmaking.
1889: The Grande Complication Debuts
In 1889, Audemars Piguet unveiled its first Grande Complication pocket watch at the Paris Universal Exhibition. This masterpiece featured complex mechanisms such as a perpetual calendar, minute repeater and chronograph, a display of the brand’s technical prowess. This era established Audemars Piguet as a leader in crafting intricate, high-caliber watches that appealed to both collectors and connoisseurs.
1915: The Creation of Audemars Piguet’s First Wristwatch
In 1915, as the world witnessed the gradual transition from pocket watches to wristwatches, Audemars Piguet took a bold step by crafting its first wristwatch. At the time, pocket watches still reigned in the luxury market, but wristwatches were gaining momentum, especially among soldiers in World War I, who favored them for their practicality in battle. Recognizing this emerging trend, Audemars Piguet embraced the opportunity to innovate.
This first wristwatch marked a pivotal moment in the brand’s history, laying the foundation for its future focus on blending traditional Swiss craftsmanship with evolving watchmaking trends. It also set the tone for Audemars Piguet’s reputation for creating elegant, high-quality timepieces that would stand the test of time aesthetically and technically.
1957: Pioneering Ultra-Thin Movements
Audemars Piguet once again pushed the boundaries of watchmaking with the development of ultra-thin movements, culminating in the groundbreaking Caliber 2120. This innovation allowed the brand to create slimmer, more elegant watches without compromising on mechanical complexity—a rare and demanding feat at the time. The reduced thickness not only enhanced aesthetics but also improved comfort, with sleek designs that fit seamlessly under cuffs, aligning perfectly with the era’s trend toward understated luxury.
In later years, the brand refined this expertise further, introducing even more sophisticated models like the Royal Oak Ultra-Thin, which debuted in the 1970s. This movement heritage continues to shape Audemars Piguet’s identity, as ultra-thin complications remain one of their hallmarks in the modern luxury watch industry.
By mastering the art of miniaturization, Audemars Piguet set itself apart, not just in technical prowess but also in its ability to evolve with changing tastes—marking 1957 as a turning point that elevated the brand’s status in the world of haute horlogerie.
Revolution in Design: The Birth of the Royal Oak (1972)
Perhaps the most transformative moment in the brand’s history came in 1972 with the introduction of the Royal Oak, designed by the legendary watchmaker Gérald Genta. The Royal Oak was revolutionary at a time when luxury watches were synonymous with precious metals. Audemars Piguet defied convention by crafting a high-end sports watch out of stainless steel, yet pricing it on par with gold models—an audacious move that redefined luxury.
The Royal Oak’s design broke all traditional norms, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by visible screws and a seamlessly integrated bracelet, both unprecedented elements for sports watches. This bold aesthetic initially met with skepticism but quickly won admiration for its originality and modern elegance. More than a trend, the Royal Oak became a symbol of defiance against the conservative tastes of the time and played a pivotal role in rescuing the brand during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s, when many traditional Swiss watchmakers struggled to survive.
The Royal Oak remains one of the most iconic timepieces in history. Its legacy continues to thrive through various evolutions, such as the Royal Oak Offshore collection and coveted limited-edition models, keeping the design relevant and desirable for collectors and enthusiasts. Today, the Royal Oak stands as a testament to Audemars Piguet’s bold vision, seamlessly blending tradition, innovation, and timeless elegance.
Audemars Piguet During the Quartz Crisis (1970s-1980s)
The Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and 1980s was a turbulent era for the Swiss watch industry, as inexpensive, battery-powered quartz watches from Japan flooded the market. This technological shift forced many traditional Swiss brands to either pivot drastically or risk extinction. While many Swiss brands struggled to survive, Audemars Piguet stood apart by embracing innovation without abandoning mechanical craftsmanship.
One of the brand’s defining moves during this period was the introduction of the Royal Oak in 1972, which proved pivotal during the crisis. While other companies scrambled to produce quartz watches, Audemars Piguet doubled down on high-end mechanical movements. With its stainless steel construction, integrated bracelet, and Innovative design, the Royal Oak became a bold statement of luxury during an era dominated by minimalist, mass-produced timepieces. By offering a luxury mechanical watch that felt bold and contemporary, Audemars Piguet weathered the storm and also helped revive the Swiss watch industry’s reputation for quality and innovation.
Stewardship and Vision: The Family Legacy (1881-Present)
Audemars Piguet’s enduring success lies in its rare distinction as a family-owned company, preserving the values set by its founders, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, since 1881. While many luxury watchmakers have been acquired by larger conglomerates, Audemars Piguet has maintained its independence, allowing the company to stay true to its founding principles of excellence, craftsmanship, and innovation. This family continuity has enabled the brand to retain a long-term vision while evolving with the demands of modern horology.
Today, Jasmine Audemars, the great-granddaughter of Edward Piguet, leads the company as chairwoman of the board. Under her stewardship, the brand has remained committed to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking while staying rooted in its legacy.
Throughout the decades, the Audemars and Piguet families have ensured the company’s success by prioritizing artisanal craftsmanship over profits. From crafting limited-edition pieces to embracing cutting-edge materials like ceramic and carbon, Audemars Piguet has consistently pushed the boundaries while staying rooted in Le Brassus, Switzerland. The stewardship reflects more than smart business-it’s a philosophy of care and continuity, with each generation safeguarding the brand’s future while leaving their own mark. Through their ongoing involvement, the family ensures that Audemars Piguet remains a leader in haute horlogerie, balancing tradition with forward-thinking design and craftsmanship.
Masterpieces of Time: Iconic Timepieces and Innovations
Over the decades, Audemars Piguet has created iconic timepieces that showcase its dedication to innovation and craftsmanship. From the intricate Grande Complication to the bold Royal Oak Offshore, these masterpieces embody the brand’s legacy of excellence.
These are the key models that have shaped its enduring legacy.
1993: The Bold Debut of the Royal Oak Offshore
Building on the groundbreaking success of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak Offshore in 1993, shaking up the luxury watch world once again. Designed by Emmanuel Gueit, the Offshore was a daring reinterpretation of the original, featuring a 42mm case unprecedented size at the time, with rugged elements like rubber accents and exposed screws. Dubbed “The Beast,” it catered to a younger, sportier audience and redefined the luxury sports watch segment.
Though initially met with skepticism, the Offshore became a symbol of boldness and innovation, resonating with athletes and trendsetters. By introducing rubber, carbon fiber, and steel into high-end watchmaking, it solidified Audemars Piguet’s role as a pioneer in oversized luxury watches. Today, the Offshore remains one of the brand’s most iconic collections, evolving through limited editions and chronographs while continuing to push design boundaries.
1995: The Sophisticated Millenary Collection
Audemars Piguet introduced the Millenary Collection in 1995, showcasing its flair for creative watchmaking. With a distinctive elliptical case and off-centered dials, the collection offered a refined alternative to the angular Royal Oak, appealing to collectors seeking unconventional luxury. Its unique design not only emphasized aesthetics but also provided a deeper view of the intricate mechanical movements, particularly in later open-worked models.
Blending classic craftsmanship with modern design, the Millenary evolved with complications like tourbillons and dual-time displays, further cementing Audemars Piguet’s reputation for technical innovation and artistic excellence.
The Fusion of Technology and Tradition (2000s-Present)
Entering the 21st century, Audemars Piguet skillfully balanced innovation with heritage, introducing high-tech materials such as forged carbon, ceramic and titanium into their timepieces. This period also saw advancements in high-complication movements with turbillons, perpetual calendars and minute repeaters becoming more precise and intricate.
Collections like the Royal Oak Offshore and Royal Oak Concept became standout examples of this fusion, showcasing bold designs and cutting-edge technology alongside traditional craftsmanship. Special edition models and high-complication pieces showcased AP’s technical mastery, proving the brand’s ability to innovate without compromising its legacy.
A turning point came with the launch of the Code 11.59 collection in 2019, which represented a bold step toward a new audience. Designed to merge tradition with forward-thinking aesthetics, the collection introduced ultra-thin movements, curved sapphire crystals, and unconventional dials. Though initially polarizing, it has grown in appeal, expanding Audemars Piguet’s influence among contemporary watch collectors while remaining anchored in craftsmanship.
Beyond product innovation, the brand has embraced philanthropy and environmental conservation, reflecting its values. Audemars Piguet supports sustainability initiatives and arts programs that align with its commitment to community and environmental stewardship, ensuring its influence extends beyond watchmaking.
This seamless blend of modernity and tradition has kept Audemars Piguet thriving. Special editions and high-complication models showcase AP’s ability to remain on the cutting edge of horological technology, all while maintaining the meticulous artisanal techniques that have defined the brand since 1875.
Chronological Excellence: Key Audemars Piguet Watches
Here’s a table summarizing the key inventions and patents of Audemars Piguet, highlighting their most notable advancements in watchmaking:
Year | Notable Invention/Patent | Description |
1892 | First wristwatch minute-repeating movement | Created the first wristwatch with a minute-repeating movement, sold to Louis Brandt frères (Omega SA). |
1899 | Grand Complication pocket watch | Manufactured a Grand Complication pocket watch with seven complications, including a minute repeater, perpetual calendar and split-seconds hand. |
1921 | First jumping-hour wristwatch | Developed the world’s first jumping-hour wristwatch, driven by the Calibre HPVM10”’. |
1934 | First skeleton watch | Introduced the world’s first skeleton watch, revealing the intricate movement inside the watch. |
1946 | Thinnest watch (1.64-mm movement) | Produced the world’s thinnest watch at the time, featuring a 1.64-mm-thick movement, showcasing AP’s expertise in ultra-thin mechanisms. |
1972 | First luxury sport wristwatch (Royal Oak) | Launched the Royal Oak, the first luxury sport wristwatch with a distinctive stainless steel design. |
1986 | Ultra-thin automatic tourbillon (Calibre 2870) | Created an ultra-thin automatic tourbillon wristwatch, with a total thickness of only 5.3 mm (including the case). |
1995/1996 | First automatic Grande Complication wristwatch (Calibre 2885) | Manufactured the first automatic Grande Complication wristwatch, driven by the Calibre 2885 movement. |
2006 | First direct-impulse escapement | Introduced the first direct-impulse escapement, based on an 18th-century design by Robert Robin. |
2007/08 | First watch with a carbon case and carbon movement (Royal Oak Carbon Concept) | Developed the first watch with both a carbon case and carbon movement, introduced in the Royal Oak Carbon Concept collection. |
2015 | First mechanical chronograph with independent memory (Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher) | Launched the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher, featuring the first mechanical chronograph with independent memory and three column-wheels. |
2019 | Thinnest automatic perpetual calendar | Introduced the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar, showcasing the brand’s continued leadership in both complications and ultra-thin design. |
Celebrating Over a Century of Craftsmanship and Innovation
The journey of Audemars Piguet journey is not only about preserving tradition but also about embracing the future of luxury watchmaking. The brand’s forward-thinking approach drives innovations in sustainability and technology, with significant strides made in reducing its environmental footprint through responsible material sourcing and minimizing production waste. At the same time, Audemars Piguet is expanding its global presence by connecting with modern collectors via digital platforms and immersive experiences. With the rise of blockchain technology and digital authentication, the brand is well-positioned to adapt to the evolving landscape of luxury assets, further reinforcing its legacy in the digital age.
Explore the latest trends and market insights on Watches.io to see how Audemars Piguet continues to redefine what it means to own a piece of horological history. Stay ahead of the curve and discover the future of luxury watch collecting today.
FAQs on Audemars Piguet’s History
What is so special about Audemars Piguet?
Audemars Piguet watches are special because they are crafted using only the finest materials and demand extensive labor and precise manual craftsmanship. Each timepiece is meticulously made by master watchmakers, guaranteeing exceptional quality and attention to detail. This dedication to excellence, combined with innovative designs and complex mechanical movements, sets Audemars Piguet apart as one of the most prestigious names in luxury watchmaking.
Is AP better than Rolex?
Deciding whether Audemars Piguet (AP) is better than Rolex depends on what you’re looking for in a watch. Audemars Piguet is renowned for its handcrafted artistry and intricate mechanical movements, offering higher levels of craftsmanship and exclusivity.
On the other hand, Rolex excels in reliability, robustness and precision, making it the go-to brand for durable and practical luxury watches.
If you value artisanal watchmaking and intricate design, AP is the winner. But Rolex comes out on top if you prioritize dependability and rugged performance.
Is AP older than Rolex?
Yes AP is older than Rolex. Audemars Piguet was founded in 1875 and Rolex was established in 1905.
Is AP better than Cartier?
Audemars Piguet (AP) is known for its superior craftsmanship and complex mechanical movements, placing it a step above in high-end watchmaking. Cartier, while offering elegant and iconic designs, is more accessible and jewelry-focused.
If you seek intricate, artisanal timepieces, AP is the better choice. For style and luxury at a more affordable level, Cartier stands out.
